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Trujillo 13e Lecture PPT Ch08

Academic year: 2021/2022
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Tidewater Community College

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Essentials of Oceanography

Thirteenth Edition

Chapter 8 Lecture

Waves and Water Dynamics

Chapter Overview

" Most waves are wind-driven. " Most waves are generated by storms. " Waves transmit energy across the ocean surface. " Deep water and surf zone waves have different characteristics. " Tsunami are special fast, long waves generated by seismic events.

Wave Movement

" Waves transmit energy " Cyclic motion of particles in ocean 3 Particles may move: ̄ Up and down ̄ Back and forth ̄ Around and around

Progressive Waves

" Progressive waves oscillate uniformly and progress without breaking. 3 Longitudinal 3 Transverse 3 Orbital

Circular Orbital Motion (1 of 2)

" Wave particles move in a circle. " Waveform travels forward. " Wave energy advances.

Circular Orbital Motion (2 of 2)

" Diameter of orbital motion decreases with depth of water. " Wave base4 depth where orbital movement of water particles stops " Wave base = L/

Deep Water Waves (1 of 2)

" If water depth is greater than wave base (>L/2), wave is a deep water wave. " Lack of orbital motion at depth useful for floating runways and other structures

Deep Water Waves (2 of 2)

" All wind-generated waves in open ocean " Wave speed = wavelength (L)/period (T) " Speed called celerity (C)

Shallow-Water Waves (2 of 2)

" Wind-generated waves in shallow nearshore areas " Tsunami " Tides " Particle motion in flat elliptical orbit

Transitional Waves

" Characteristics of both deep- and shallow-water waves " Celerity depends on both water depth and wavelength.

Wind-Generated Wave Development (2 of 2)

Factors Affecting Wave Energy

" Wind speed " Wind duration " Fetch4distance over which wind blows

Beaufort Wind Scale

SmartTable 8 Beaufort wind scale and the state of the sea

TOPEX/Poseidon Satellite Wave Heights NASA Ocean

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Trujillo 13e Lecture PPT Ch08

Course: Oceanography II (GOL 112 )

University: Tidewater Community College

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Essentials of Oceanography
Thirteenth Edition
Chapter 8 Lecture
Waves and Water
Dynamics
Copyright © 2020, 2017, 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. All Rights Reserved

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